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CREATE YOUR OWN FURNITURES
kinook-for-beginners

If

you are a DIY beginner or have never installed plasterboard, this tutorial is for you

.
You'll see, it's easier than it seems. With minimal tools and a few tricks you will soon master the basics and you will be able to start your own home improvement projects.
Any construction based on the Kinook system includes 3 main steps:


BUILD THE METALLIC STRUCTURE


The metallic studs are those used for building standard drywall. They can be found in most DIY superstore.

3 types of metal studs can be used with the Kinook system.

C-studs

1) C-Stud

This is the mostly used with the Kinook system. C-shaped with small lips which allows the Kinook blocks to slide inside to assemble the studs together.

Check our compatibility table to choose a stud compatible with the Kinook system.

lining-channel

2) Lining Channel

Same shape as the C-studs with a small lip on both site. The lining channel is only 17mm high which allows construction of thinner structure. It is used with the mini-block

Track-Stud

3) Track or U-channel

Not often used with the Kinook system, it can however be used to plug the hollow side of a C-Stud or to start a construction from the floor.

decoupe-grignoteuse

Cutting the studs

Studs can be easily cut with tin snips or a nibbler.

For nibbler cutting, engage the nibbler at the cutting location and advance in small passes.

For tin snips cutting, start by marking the location of the cut precisely with a square ruler and a marker. Cut the sides (both), fold the profile at the place of the cut, then finish the cut with the tin snips as shown below.
cutting-studs-with-tin-snips-1
cutting-studs-with-tin-snips-2
cutting-studs-with-tin-snips-3
cutting-studs-with-tin-snips-4

Assembling the studs

The C-studs are assembled together with Kinook blocks. As in a game of construction, create T, L, X, etc. shapes with Kinook blocks and slide the C-studs into place.

creating-furniture-metallic-structure

Note that the metal structure will not be stiffened until the panels are screwed in. Although a little destabilizing at first, this is an advantage because the structure can be adjusted to the dimensions of the panels and thus obtain a perfectly joined assembly. Details on construction page.

assembling-metallic-studs

Crimping the studs

This technique is mainly used to raise the first shelf to leave room for a skirting board as in the construction of this bookcase.
C-studs are crimped to track-studs with a standard stud crimping tool (Available in any DIY superstore). The tool solidly cramps the two studs together.

climping-tool
climping-stud-1
climping-stud-2
climping-stud-3

Mettalic structure example

In this simple structure example, we can see the track-stud on the floor which has been crimped to the vertical C-studs. The Kinook blocks assemble the C-studs together in perfect right angles.

mettalic-structure-furniture

SKIN THE METALLIC STRUCTURE


The metallic structure is then covered with panels. Panels can be plasterboard, Fermacell, wood, melamine, MDF or any other material of your choice. See page select material for the panels for selecting and sizing the panels.

Plasterboard

Plasterboard (or sheetrock) is easy to find, inexpensive, and easy to cut. It is available in different sheet size and thickness, the most common are 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm thick.


Cutting plasterboard

Plasterboard can be easily cut with a sharp trimming knife blade. Score along the line with the knife, and cut all the way through the plasterboard, just deep enough to cut through the paper (about 3mm). Turn the sheet over and bend firmly one part to about a 90 degree angle. This will break the remaining sheetrock. Cut through the paper on the back side, along the bend where you made the first cut.

how-to-cut-plasterboard-1
how-to-cut-plasterboard-2
how-to-cut-plasterboard-3

Fixing panels

plasterboard-screw

Panels are fixed to the metallic structure (studs) with special plasterboard screws capable of driving through the metallic stud without having to drill starting holes. These screws can be easily found with plasterboard accessories and are available in different sizes. Most common size is 25-35 mm long and a diameter of 3.5 mm.

diy-screw-in-plasterboard

If you are using wood type panel, do not forget to drill a counter-sink hole to hide the screw head.

Use an electric drill or screwdriver. Place the screw on the panel and gently press until the screw reaches the stud. At this point, press firmly (and hold the metallic structure) until the screw perforates the studs, release pressure. The screw heads need to finish just under the surface of the board (1mm) as shown below.

comment-visser-dans-placo-1
comment-visser-dans-placo-2
comment-visser-dans-placo-3

Sticking plasterboards

Use compound or acrylic joint sealant on plasterboard edge to assemble plasterboard together. See minimize finishing work section.

HINTS

diy-piece-of-furniture

when screwing the panel boards, use plastic pliers to hold them firmly to the metal structure.

depth-limiter

Use a screw head depth limiter to avoid damaging the plasterboard by screwing too deep into the panel.


FINISHING


diy-finishing

Start by plugging every hole and crack with compound.
Sand, then apply a finishing compound. Sand lightly before painting.
For more details, check our finishing page


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